Maison Margiela & Schiaparelli Steal the Spring 2017 Shows
Posted Feb 04, 2017
Haute Couture finds its center as Maison Margiela & Schiaparelli Steal the Spring 2017 Show Season. It’s not often that we have a season so rich in artistic detail. Each collection showcased a series of eclectic styles, but, it was two that literally Brought the House Down. In this world of opposites where the exquisitely strange takes shape, we find daringly different houses playing together on the same high fashion playground. John Galliano marches with fervent steps down Maison Margiela’s Runway, while Bertrand Guyon honors the woman who started the great House of Schiaparelli. Follow a moon beam into the extreme where vibrant colors will shock you to scream. Then take a mindful trip into the exquisite abyss as this willful erection vibrates with intensity.
This is a stunning combination of someone exposing the best parts of themselves. Some of the outfits were seen as only half-done, a tribute (they say) to his past. But I say, with utter conviction, I see none of Galliano’s work as undone. This is a man who has mastered the Art of Deconstruction. And, while that may sound like an easy task to undertake, we’ve watched as many great designers struggle with that very concept. True couture lies in its ability to transport you. Every cut provides a new opening, each piece takes you to another place. Distressed looks define new dimension with threaded sections torn into tatters. A fabric revolution comes to be as a fashion fusion transforms the scene. Building unto beauty… the most exciting part of this story lies in the motion of the maker.
There’s an old saying, “You’ve got to tear it apart to know where to start”. Sartorial artistry asks us to look at things from the inside out. Here we have a man brave enough to take that conceptual step to the next level. And, it’s in that intense resolve that we come in contact with ourselves. Showing styles in such inventive ways makes us rethink the idea of exposure. So, while some may see these pieces as incomplete, I view them as a victory like no other. Life’s unrest is expressed in makeup mastery, as an abstract blast is made over the face with Picasso like precision drawn on the skin. Vibrant, blue shadow leaves a streak through the eyes while red runs lines over the lips. A tear-drop dress shape explodes over the runway, as we imagine the entire collection hiding under the giant hoop skirt. This collection features like small, significant vignettes, all answering the call of poetic reflection.
An ode to Elsa Schiaparelli. Bertrand Guyon pays homage to the Art of Elsa, by honoring her memory in this exquisite Haute Couture Collection. Luxury, eccentricity, irony and sexuality define the delicacy of this historically inspired work. And, while there isn’t a Lobster Claw Dress made for Salvador Dali, it does carry some of that same mix of intellectual & sexual stimulation. Borrowing from her bombastic revelry, the distinction of this show came in its ability to connect to the concept of ~ Elsa. When you’re working under the moniker of such a world-renowned figure, it’s hard to imagine how you can stand out. However, here we see Guyon honor her original vision, while aiming to build his own brand. Mark Holgate spoke about the ornate detailing done in his designs as, “Elsa-isms”. Very clever, read more at Vogue.com. In the Schiaparelli show we are met with a visual depiction of two females face-to-face, while at Maison Margiela we see giant faces coming through the clouds of tulle. In my humble opinion, these two, brilliant houses represent the best of 2017 Haute Couture.
A Unique Selection from Maison Margiella Via Vogue.com
Images Via Purple.Fr
Powerful Picks from Schiaparelli Via Vogue.com