Julia Nobis in “Melancholia” by Willy Vanderperre for Love Magazine, F/W 2016/17
Posted Jul 31, 2016
Julia Nobis is mixed-up in the mania of “Melancholia” by Willy Vanderperre for Love #17, F/W 2016/17. While searching we seek… in silence we speak… for quiet comes calling in the dark hour of our need. What could be seen as merely a swath of stomped out grass, is transformed, into a path of the unknown. Each picture projects a sense of solemnity, wrapped in the purity of thought. Embarking on a journey of discovery, Vanderperre takes us to the, “Enchanted Landscapes of His Native Antwerp.” A moody mix of art and excess, this story celebrates the creative side of high-end fashion. Olivier Rizzo is one with the land showing styles that are synonymous with his Belgium ancestry. Nobis pulls off a collection of stimulating sources, from an Amish bonnet to a long, pointed hat associated with Cornish folklore. Bejeweled garments glow in the light of sun’s shine carefully navigating the pathways of the mind. True art evokes a sense of self, as pleasure and pain are projected at the same time. A fatigue jumpsuit is topped by a plethora of surprise, from a sequined frock to a black, velvet mini. Platform boots stomp us into another century, as a Wizard hat is worn as high haute coiffure. Rizzo rejoices in a collection of creative sources, from a bouquet of baroque florets dancing along the jacket’s front flaps, to a long, plaid overcoat matched only by decadent dressing gowns.
The face embraces the flavor of the forest as Peter Philips captures the colors of country. Surrounded by the sun bordered by the sky the skin’s takes on tones from up on high. Beauty breaks through the page with airbrushed features that speak to inner ferocity. Charcoal creates a unique design, over the top and out the sides of the eyes, while a dark dusting moves down around the lower cheeks. Black is blown out in a spray form, made to look like paint on a palette. Naked makeup reflects power as the tone-on-tone presence projects promise. No mascara or brow shade stays on trend, leaving a thick, black line to mark the bottom lid. Julia appears like a statue, free from the futile meanderings of such endeavors, but committed to the intensity of this editorial. Gary Gill works to make her dew appear like nothing’s been done. Each part of the mane is uniquely mastered, as if independent from the feature, while still emitting a strong message. Under all the craziness, our love of country comes through, with army green worn at the base of every outfit. Melancholia is examined as this says as much about the, “Macabre, somber stuff,” as it explores the creative side of couture.